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How I made an Ultimate Cooling Guide

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I wanted to share my simple guide for cooling. Hope this helps for everyone.

1. Use PCI-X generation 1 only, not 4
2. Resizable Bar Enable
3. ASPM Control Enable/Auto
4. ERP Ready Enabled
5. Security Device Disabled
6. Precision Boost Overdrive Disabled
7. Core Performance Boost Disabled
8. Global C-State Control Enabled
9. A-XMP Disabled
10. Chipset SOC Voltage 0.850 V (set to min)
11. Chipset CLDO Voltage 1 V(set to min)
12. Windows power plan set to Power Saver
13. Change the stock thermal pad and paste with any reputable brand. (preferably phase changing pad)
14. Use a pre arranged HOSTS file in order to block ads and decrease any strain on CPU.
15. Use O&O Shut up10++ in order to disable unnecessary windows services .
16. Load Line Calibration Set to 1
17. Make sure your system sits above the ground.
18. As you know, clean the system with pressurized air every week.
19. Under Windows Power Plan Settings, set Max Processor State to between (%10-%50), up to you.
20. If possible use LTSC version of win10/11
21. Use Dism++ to remove any bloatware comes with windows.
22. Often clean the system with Ccleaner and Bleachbit.


With these settings, My Cpu is running at 42C, chipset 45 and GPU 43, while the ambient is 26C. Pretty good so far I think.

Hope this helps!

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg
 
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Isn't April the first already over?
 
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freeagent

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Well, I am glad that system works for you and you can tell by the 4th line in my sig that heat management is a big concern and priority for me. But (for me), so is performance and so is noise. So (again, for me) there needs to be a good balance between performance, adequate cooling, and low (preferably no) fan noise. This guide does not achieve that.

Also, I would not call this guide "simple" for many or even most users. For starters, this clearly is for AMD users yet nothing in the guide indicates that. And beyond being for AMD users, I don't know who this guide is for. IMO, most readers here at TPU are interested in getting the most performance out of their systems, while maintaining adequate cooling. And frankly, many of your suggestions are better, or more ideally suited for laptop users, not PC users.

With that in mind, your guide seems more suited for a limited group of users, not the majority. Sorry.

Plus, some of your options include incorrect terms, some really don't make a lot of sense for many users, and nearly all assume users know what those settings do or what they are for. I do not recommend users make changes to the defaults in the BIOS Setup Menu unless they know what they are doing, what the consequences may be, AND how to undo those changes.

A couple additional comments. Guides should first state who the guide is intended for, and what the goal of the guide is. Yours does neither. But also,

1. PCI-X no longer exists! It is a long defunct expansion card interface that has NOT been used or supported for 20 years! It is NOT the same thing and should not be confused with PCI Express (AKA PCIe or PCI-E).

2. Resizable BAR (note it is BAR, not Bar) is called Smart Access Memory (SAM) by AMD. However, AMD motherboards may call it all sorts of things, including Resize BAR or something else. In either case, for some enabling Resizable BAR increased temps with many reporting 10°C increases in idle temps. That increase is not insignificant. So while enabling the feature does improve performance for most, if the intent of this guide is to reduce heat and improve cooling, enabling Resizable BAR may be counterproductive.

3. ASPM is primarily used with laptops to extend battery runtime, and reduce heat. But it has also been known to increase latency. Either way, its usefulness with PCs is questionable.

4. ERP Ready has nothing to do with cooling while the system is running. ERP Ready reduces power consumption when the computer is turned off.

5. Security Device does not affect cooling.

6. PBO is for AMD, not Intel. And while disabling it may reduce cooling requirements a little, some may want PBO enabled because it can improve performance. On many boards, the default is Auto. If me and my PC, I would either leave it in Auto, or enable it.

7. CPB again is for AMD, not Intel. If this is a PC, I would not disable it.

9. "A-XMP" is a MSI term and AMDs. So it does little good for users of other brand motherboards or Intels.

10. .85V is pretty low and may be fine for your goal and your CPU - but not for others.

11. The ideal CLDO setting is also CPU dependent.

12. No way would I set the power plan to Power Saver, except on a laptop I needed maximum battery runtime. Balanced makes much more sense for most users.

13. I always replace the stock TIM with a better TIM, but my hands are still steady and I know what I am doing. But this task is not simple for many. And there certainly are risks involved that can easily result in permanent damage to the processor or motherboard. Plus, new applications of TIM must be done correctly. If not, the resulting heat transfer will get worse, NOT better.

14. Host files??? Maybe 20 years ago when PCI-X was still around - at least for the vast majority of us. Very few people will ever need to edit the default HOST file. Use a decent ad blocker. I like AdGuard. In any case, the HOST file has zero effect on heat or cooling.

15. O&O ShutUp10++ is a nice programs, but it has no effect on heat or cooling. But also, settings changed with this program may be unchanged after a Windows Update. And some security apps may report it as suspicious or unwanted. Not sure I would recommend this for the less experienced. Point is, it is not a "set and forget" thing.

16. There is no industry standard for Load Line Calibration, or its labeling. Therefore a setting of "1" may make no sense for users of other brand motherboards - and that's if the feature is supported by their board.

17. Make sure system sits above the ground? Huh? Why? And by how much? I note on the floor is typically the coolest place in the room. The computers in my basement I have sitting on 1 inch planks of wood because twice in nearly 40 years, my basement flooded. Computers I have sitting on carpet elsewhere in the house also sit on 1 inch planks of wood to allow air to circulate underneath. Otherwise, I say keep your computers as low to the floor as possible, and not in direct path of heater ducts, as that is where the cooler air tends to be.

18. Cleaning the computers once a week is WAY WAY overkill. If you have a herd of cats and dogs shedding all over the place, and you never sweep/vacuum your floors or dust your home, and these animals (and rug rats) are constantly running around, stirring up dust, then you might need to clean your computers every few months. But NOT once a week. If your computer needs cleaning that often, you have other cleaning/dirt (and possible hygiene :() issues to deal with.

Get a case with removable, washable, air filters.

When cleaning is necessary, I do recommend using an air compressor OUTDOORS. Just make sure it is equipped with a suitable inline moisture and particulate filter when cleaning electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes or faces).

Cans of dusting gas will work, but are less effective. But note those cans of dusting gas do NOT contain “air” and therefore should never be called “canned air”. Instead of safe-to-breath air, they contain difluoroethane or a similar gas. These gases are typically used as refrigerants and can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. And these cans should be kept out-of-reach of small children.

Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse from “huffing”. :( You don't want any of those chemicals in your eyes either.

19. Contradicts #12.

20. The LTSC does not reduce heat or improve cooling.

21. Nothing suggests DISM++ reduces heat or improves cooling. Plus, it is hardly a simple (or safe) tool for the less experienced.

22. While I happen to be a fan of CCleaner, not only does the installer attempt to foist unnecessary and perhaps unwanted extras on our systems, it will, by default, install an auto-updater on our systems too. Can't speak to BleachBit. I tried it once, but was not impressed so I don't use it. I also note BleachBit has not been updated in 2 years - to the day (4/6/2023). That does NOT necessarily mean anything, but it could.

With these settings, My Cpu is running at 42C, chipset 45 and GPU 43, while the ambient is 26C.
Hmmm, with my ambient at 72°F (22.2°C), my CPU is running at 27°C, chipset at 29°C and GPU at 37.8°C.

The good news is, I didn't have a problem with #8! ;)
 
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This guide is how to make your computer slow, yes somehow this will lower the temperatures.
If you want a cooler system, you need to have better cooling...

22. While I happen to be a fan of CCleaner, not only does the installer attempt to foist unnecessary and perhaps unwanted extras on our systems, it will, by default, install an auto-updater on our systems too. Can't speak to BleachBit. I tried it once, but was not impressed so I don't use it. I also note BleachBit has not been updated in 2 years - to the day (4/6/2023). That does NOT necessarily mean anything, but it could.
For BleachBit, you need to check this to download more cleaning settings.

1743957014886.png
 
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For BleachBit, you need to check this to download more cleaning settings.
Thanks for that but it still seems like 4.6.2 from 2023 is the latest official and "stable" release. I beta test other software so trying unofficial releases is not an issue for me. But they are not something I would recommend for the non-enthusiasts.
 

freeagent

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I go the opposite way, Can my cooling keep my hardware cool at full load with PBO and a heavy tune.

Your best friend when it comes to cooling is your chassis. Torrent, PA602 immediately come to mind.

Then your choice of cooler, even board manufacturer will play a part with how well the VRM and M.2 are sinked.

The more air that you can pass over all of your components the better off you will be.

Also, filters are ok if you are scared of dust I guess, but they do not help in the quest for more airflow.
 
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Well, I am glad that system works for you and you can tell by the 4th line in my sig that heat management is a big concern and priority for me. But (for me), so is performance and so is noise. So (again, for me) there needs to be a good balance between performance, adequate cooling, and low (preferably no) fan noise. This guide does not achieve that.

Also, I would not call this guide "simple" for many or even most users. For starters, this clearly is for AMD users yet nothing in the guide indicates that. And beyond being for AMD users, I don't know who this guide is for. IMO, most readers here at TPU are interested in getting the most performance out of their systems, while maintaining adequate cooling. And frankly, many of your suggestions are better, or more ideally suited for laptop users, not PC users.

With that in mind, your guide seems more suited for a limited group of users, not the majority. Sorry.

Plus, some of your options include incorrect terms, some really don't make a lot of sense for many users, and nearly all assume users know what those settings do or what they are for. I do not recommend users make changes to the defaults in the BIOS Setup Menu unless they know what they are doing, what the consequences may be, AND how to undo those changes.

A couple additional comments. Guides should first state who the guide is intended for, and what the goal of the guide is. Yours does neither. But also,

1. PCI-X no longer exists! It is a long defunct expansion card interface that has NOT been used or supported for 20 years! It is NOT the same thing and should not be confused with PCI Express (AKA PCIe or PCI-E).

2. Resizable BAR (note it is BAR, not Bar) is called Smart Access Memory (SAM) by AMD. However, AMD motherboards may call it all sorts of things, including Resize BAR or something else. In either case, for some enabling Resizable BAR increased temps with many reporting 10°C increases in idle temps. That increase is not insignificant. So while enabling the feature does improve performance for most, if the intent of this guide is to reduce heat and improve cooling, enabling Resizable BAR may be counterproductive.

3. ASPM is primarily used with laptops to extend battery runtime, and reduce heat. But it has also been known to increase latency. Either way, its usefulness with PCs is questionable.

4. ERP Ready has nothing to do with cooling while the system is running. ERP Ready reduces power consumption when the computer is turned off.

5. Security Device does not affect cooling.

6. PBO is for AMD, not Intel. And while disabling it may reduce cooling requirements a little, some may want PBO enabled because it can improve performance. On many boards, the default is Auto. If me and my PC, I would either leave it in Auto, or enable it.

7. CPB again is for AMD, not Intel. If this is a PC, I would not disable it.

9. "A-XMP" is a MSI term and AMDs. So it does little good for users of other brand motherboards or Intels.

10. .85V is pretty low and may be fine for your goal and your CPU - but not for others.

11. The ideal CLDO setting is also CPU dependent.

12. No way would I set the power plan to Power Saver, except on a laptop I needed maximum battery runtime. Balanced makes much more sense for most users.

13. I always replace the stock TIM with a better TIM, but my hands are still steady and I know what I am doing. But this task is not simple for many. And there certainly are risks involved that can easily result in permanent damage to the processor or motherboard. Plus, new applications of TIM must be done correctly. If not, the resulting heat transfer will get worse, NOT better.

14. Host files??? Maybe 20 years ago when PCI-X was still around - at least for the vast majority of us. Very few people will ever need to edit the default HOST file. Use a decent ad blocker. I like AdGuard. In any case, the HOST file has zero effect on heat or cooling.

15. O&O ShutUp10++ is a nice programs, but it has no effect on heat or cooling. But also, settings changed with this program may be unchanged after a Windows Update. And some security apps may report it as suspicious or unwanted. Not sure I would recommend this for the less experienced. Point is, it is not a "set and forget" thing.

16. There is no industry standard for Load Line Calibration, or its labeling. Therefore a setting of "1" may make no sense for users of other brand motherboards - and that's if the feature is supported by their board.

17. Make sure system sits above the ground? Huh? Why? And by how much? I note on the floor is typically the coolest place in the room. The computers in my basement I have sitting on 1 inch planks of wood because twice in nearly 40 years, my basement flooded. Computers I have sitting on carpet elsewhere in the house also sit on 1 inch planks of wood to allow air to circulate underneath. Otherwise, I say keep your computers as low to the floor as possible, and not in direct path of heater ducts, as that is where the cooler air tends to be.

18. Cleaning the computers once a week is WAY WAY overkill. If you have a herd of cats and dogs shedding all over the place, and you never sweep/vacuum your floors or dust your home, and these animals (and rug rats) are constantly running around, stirring up dust, then you might need to clean your computers every few months. But NOT once a week. If your computer needs cleaning that often, you have other cleaning/dirt (and possible hygiene :() issues to deal with.

Get a case with removable, washable, air filters.

When cleaning is necessary, I do recommend using an air compressor OUTDOORS. Just make sure it is equipped with a suitable inline moisture and particulate filter when cleaning electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes or faces).

Cans of dusting gas will work, but are less effective. But note those cans of dusting gas do NOT contain “air” and therefore should never be called “canned air”. Instead of safe-to-breath air, they contain difluoroethane or a similar gas. These gases are typically used as refrigerants and can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. And these cans should be kept out-of-reach of small children.

Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse from “huffing”. :( You don't want any of those chemicals in your eyes either.

19. Contradicts #12.

20. The LTSC does not reduce heat or improve cooling.

21. Nothing suggests DISM++ reduces heat or improves cooling. Plus, it is hardly a simple (or safe) tool for the less experienced.

22. While I happen to be a fan of CCleaner, not only does the installer attempt to foist unnecessary and perhaps unwanted extras on our systems, it will, by default, install an auto-updater on our systems too. Can't speak to BleachBit. I tried it once, but was not impressed so I don't use it. I also note BleachBit has not been updated in 2 years - to the day (4/6/2023). That does NOT necessarily mean anything, but it could.


Hmmm, with my ambient at 72°F (22.2°C), my CPU is running at 27°C, chipset at 29°C and GPU at 37.8°C.

The good news is, I didn't have a problem with #8! ;)
Thanks for your professional approach, and kind corrections. What amazes me most is, how did you manage to cool that CPU? What is your thermal paste and case?
 
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With all of these adjustments how many watts is your system pulling?

1. PCI-X no longer exists! It is a long defunct expansion card interface that has NOT been used or supported for 20 years! It is NOT the same thing and should not be confused with PCI Express (AKA PCIe or PCI-E).
My PCI-X raid card frowns at you in 64-bits.
 
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to OP 3900x on a Wrath Prism cooler you should get your self a descent cooler - Im currently running Artic Liquid Freezer for the last coouple of years and happy - depending on your cabinet I would fit the largest possible AIO
 
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Maybe you could help me to populate the list? :)
Any advices will be very welcome
(assuming AM4/AM5)
  1. Measure the total power of your system.
  2. Apply power limits on the CPU as needed.
  3. Apply power limits on the GPU as needed.
Done.
 
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Also, filters are ok if you are scared of dust I guess, but they do not help in the quest for more airflow.
Not all filters are created equal. Some are excellent at blocking dust but greatly restrict air flow. So that's no good.

Others offer only negligible restriction to air flow, but let a great deal of dust through too. That almost defeats the purpose for filters.

Quality filters trap most dust while letting most of the air flow through.

What I can say is the filters Fractal Design use do a great job of trapping dust while also minimizing the impact on air flow. But as you correctly point out, it is all about the chassis. It is the case's responsibility to provide a sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case. And, of course, it is the user's responsibility to set up case cooling.

I am not "scared" of heat trapping dust. But I sure don't like it. And what I really don't like is breaking down my computers to lug outside so I can blast that dust out. Fully populated mid-tower cases are heavy and bulky and I'm no spring chicken, nor do I have a perfectly healthy back. :( My filters mean I only need to do that once every couple years. :)

And I only have to clean my filters every 3 or 4 months - if that. If you have pets and kids running around, you will have to clean more often. Dirty and/or inefficient HVAC filters may mean more frequent case filter cleaning too. My computer is running 5 - 6 hours per day. That affects dust infiltration too.

What amazes me most is, how did you manage to cool that CPU? What is your thermal paste and case?
Case, and cpu cooler are in my system specs. MX-4 is the TIM. Note I was using the OEM cooler but fan bearings started to grind. I hate fan noise so replaced the HSF assembly. The temps improved ~5°. To that, contrary to what many want us to believe, OEM coolers in recent years are very capable of keeping the CPUs they come with adequately cooled. Typically, if the OEM cooler is not good enough, the CPU maker will not bundle one with the CPU.

I will take this opportunity to add this. Keeping our systems adequately cooled is absolutely essential. Keeping them as cool as possible is not. There is no technical reason my CPU running at 27°C will perform better, be more stable, or have a longer life expectancy than your CPU running at 42°C. As long as our CPUs stay comfortably within their "normal" temperature range, that is fine. If they exceed maximum temps, or sit up near maximum temps for extended periods of time, then you need to be concerned about accelerated aging, or worse.
 
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I have discovered custom filter sheets... allowing you to run an open/mesh high airflow case while still having something against dust. Since you are stacking a mesh against another mesh that never aligns perfectly, you get an effective filter.
 
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My approach exhibits about as many variables as the @freeagent's one.

0. Buy whatever I can afford.
1. Delid the CPU if possible.
2. Run direct-die if possible; use liquid metal under the IHS if direct-die isn't an option.
3. Remove all limits both in BIOS and in the OS.
4. Set all frequencies to the reasonable maximum.
5. Test if it works.
6. Drop frequency and voltage if it's too much for my cooling.
7. Repeat 5 and 6 until it works.
8. Enjoy.

NB: I'm totally okay with high electricity bills and high noise levels. I really don't care. Work must flow, fans must blow.
 
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I nearly forget, set the GPU power to lowest minimum via MSI Afterburner. In my case it is %27

1743967355807.png
 
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That's definitely gonna make gaming an absolute ass. At 27% and auto curve, this poor thing is gonna be even slower than my far lower tier GPU.
 
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With all of these adjustments how many watts is your system pulling?


My PCI-X raid card frowns at you in 64-bits.
That's a good question, here is the all info I have:

1743967748102.png
 

Toothless

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Oh look, another "guide" on how to fully gimp your system. If you want to lower power usage then don't get a 12 core chip and stop using a stock cooler.

Wait, we've been over this. Many times. You're not even showing full load and your hwinfo64 screenshots show this.
 
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That's a good question, here is the all info I have:

View attachment 393696
If you want to know how many watts your system is consuming, just get a wattmeter and make sure your monitor and everything else is plugged into it.
If you're expecting HWInfo64 to show you your electricity bill, you're sorely mistaken :)
 
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Soooo...to summarize (without all the techno-babble):

A) A "one-size-fits-all" or "universal" guide for cooling and/or bio settings/adjustments does NOT exist, no matter how much you may wanna believe otherwise. There are simply way too many variables & combos of various parts that can/will work together at stock settings, and so many ways said parts can be tweaked for better cooling and/or performance, but unless you're an "EXPERT", it's almost always a "trial & error" process and should be approached on a case-by-case basis.....

B) Changing bios and/or other low-level settings is NOT for the inexperienced or casual user, who just buys some parts & assembles them into whatever combination he/she feels is appropriate, without knowing the consequences of said changes/adjustment BEFORE they do them AND knows exactly how to fix/undo them should things go south...

Tell me I'm wrong & why, hehehe :D
 
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just get a wattmeter and make sure your monitor and everything else is plugged into it.
Assuming you mean something like a kill-a-watt meter, I agree. And you could also plug just the computer into it and see what it alone is consuming. Or, most of the better UPS have a LCD status display that will tell you how much the connected devices are using.

You can tell a lot from HWInfo64, depending on the motherboard and if you know what sensors to look at. But definitely not everything. RAM, drives even the graphics card may not be monitored through HWInfo64. And HWInfo64 does not monitor the PSU in terms of its efficiency either.
 
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Changing bios and/or other low-level settings is NOT for the inexperienced or casual user
Perhaps it was like that when I wasn't even my dad's project but today you really need to push your stupidity beyond all limits to botch it with BIOS tweaks. Ability to read and to google makes you overqualified.
"I googled what this thing means so let's adjust it this way" + "I don't know what this moonpeak means so I leave it at that" = virtually a very safe way to approach it.

And you gotta believe me. I tweaked my BIOS seven years ago when I was VERY deep into intelligence deficiency territory, barely making it to 40 (!) IQ points after a devastating brain injury. Nothing got destroyed.
 
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